The Seven Waterfalls of Setti Fatma: How the Hike Really Works

• First waterfall about 30 minutes from the village
• Rocky, steep path with some easy scrambling
• Strongest flow in spring, from the snowmelt
• Summer afternoon storms can raise the river fast
• Official local guides at the start of the path

The Setti Fatma waterfalls are a series of seven falls in a narrow gorge above Setti Fatma, the last village on the Ourika Valley road, at about 1,500 m in the High Atlas. The path starts at the footbridge in the village and reaches the first falls in about 30 minutes of steep, rocky walking, with a few places where hands are needed. Most visitors stop there; the higher falls are smaller, wilder and suited only to fit, sure-footed walkers with a local guide. The water is strongest in spring, roughly March to May, when snow melts on the peaks, and drops sharply by late summer. In July and August, afternoon thunderstorms can raise the stream within minutes, so the walk is best done in the morning. Closed shoes with a good grip, water and some cash are enough; a guide is not compulsory but is recommended.

We have walked this gorge in every season, with families, groups of friends and grandparents who wanted to "just see the first one". Here is what we tell every guest before they start.

Where does the waterfall hike start?

The path begins in Setti Fatma, the last village on the Ourika Valley road, at about 1,500 m. From the road you cross the river on a footbridge, pass the restaurants on the far bank and head up the side valley that leads into the gorge. The office of the official guides is close to the bridge at the start of the walk.

Just above the village the path narrows, the walls of the gorge close in, and you begin to hear the water before you see it. The seven waterfalls are spread along this gorge, one above the other. The first ones are the most visited by far, and the one most photos show.

How long is the walk to the first waterfall?

Allow about 30 minutes to reach the first falls from the village, a little less on the way down if the path is quiet, more on a busy weekend. It is short, but three things make it harder than the distance suggests:

• It is steep. The path gains height quickly on uneven stone steps and loose gravel.
• It is rocky. In several places you step up onto large boulders, and a few moves need your hands. Nothing technical, but you want both hands free, so use a small backpack rather than carrying bags.
• It gets wet. Near the falls, spray and small streams keep the rocks damp and slippery, even in summer.

Along the way there are small cafés built into the rocks, selling fresh orange juice, soft drinks and tea. They are good for a pause in the shade. At the first fall the water drops into a rock pool surrounded by boulders where people sit, cool their feet and take photos.

Going beyond the first falls

Above the first falls the path becomes rougher, less marked and less busy. The higher waterfalls are smaller but the setting is wilder, with views back down the gorge and very few people. Reaching the upper falls means a longer climb, more scrambling and a careful descent on the same ground. Reaching the highest falls is a long outing, for fit and sure-footed walkers only.

Our advice is simple: go beyond the first falls only with a local guide, start in the morning, carry water, and turn back at the agreed time even if the next fall looks close. The path is easy to lose, and the descent is always harder on tired legs.

When do the waterfalls have the most water?

The waterfalls are fed by rain and snow on the High Atlas peaks, so their flow changes a lot through the year:

• Spring (roughly March to May) is the best time. The snowmelt fills the river, the falls are at their strongest and the orchards in the valley are green or in blossom.
• Early summer is still good, with pleasant cool air in the gorge, although the flow drops.
• Late summer and early autumn can be low: after a dry year, the first fall may be only a thin stream. It is still a lovely walk, but manage your expectations.
• Winter can be cold and wet, with occasional ice on shaded rocks after cold nights. Clear winter days, with snow on the peaks above, are beautiful but need extra care.

Our Ourika Valley weather guide goes into the conditions month by month.

Water flow at the Setti Fatma falls, month by month

This table sums up what we usually see at the first falls. It is a general pattern, not a measurement: the flow depends on the snow and rain of each year, and it can change within a day after a storm.

For the strongest water, come between March and May. From July to September, come for the walk and the cool gorge more than for the falls themselves, and walk in the morning.

Flash floods and summer storms

This is the one safety point we insist on. In July and August, heat building over the mountains often produces thunderstorms in the afternoon. Rain falling high up can send a surge of water down the gorge within minutes, sometimes while the sky above Setti Fatma still looks fine. The valley learned this the hard way in the flood of August 1995, which killed more than 200 people.

What this means in practice:

• Walk in the morning in summer, and aim to be back down in the village by early afternoon.
• If you hear thunder, see dark clouds over the peaks, or notice the water turning brown or rising, leave the riverbed and come down straight away.
• Never wait out a storm in the bottom of the gorge or on rocks in the river.
• Listen to the guides and café owners. When they say go back, they mean it.

We watch the forecast before every departure. If the river or the weather makes the valley unsafe, we propose another date or a full refund.

What to wear and bring

• Shoes: trainers or walking shoes with a good grip. No flip-flops, no smooth-soled sandals. Water shoes are fine if they have a solid sole.
• Clothes: light, comfortable, covering shoulders and knees in the village. Bring a layer: the gorge is cooler than the road, especially in spring and autumn.
• Bag: a small backpack so your hands stay free.
• Water and sun: a bottle of water, sunscreen and a hat for the open stretches.
• Cash: small notes for drinks, your guide and a tip.
• Phone protection: a zip bag for the spray near the falls.

Kids and older travellers

Children who walk regularly usually love the scramble and the pools. Keep young children close on the rocky steps and near the water. Our guides are used to lifting kids over the difficult spots. For toddlers, a hiking carrier works; a pushchair is useless beyond the village.

For older travellers, the question is balance and knees, not distance. The steps are high in places and the descent is the harder part. Walking sticks help a lot. If the full walk seems too much, the stretch along the river near the village and a long lunch at a riverside table are a very good day in themselves, and nobody will think less of you.

Why we recommend a local guide

A guide is not compulsory, but on this path it is worth it. The guides from the village know which route is dry, where the rock is loose that week, and how the river is behaving. They also make the walk more interesting: the plants and birds of the gorge (more in our guide to Ourika's nature and wildlife), the villages above, the stories of the gorge. On our Ourika Valley day trip you can add a local valley guide when you book (40 EUR per group for 1 to 7 people, 80 EUR for 8 to 17), and he walks with you. If you come independently, hire one from the official guides' office rather than accepting offers on the road.

Swimming in the pools

On hot days you will see people in the pools below the falls. It can be refreshing, but be careful: the water is very cold even in August, the rocks are slippery, depth is hard to judge and currents under the falls are stronger than they look. Do not jump from the rocks, never swim alone, keep children out of the deep parts and get out as soon as the water changes colour.

Photo tips

The gorge is deep and narrow, so light is best from late morning, when the sun reaches the water. A wide angle captures the whole fall; a slower shutter speed smooths the water if you can steady the camera on a rock. Keep your phone in a pouch between shots, and ask before photographing people from the village, including the café owners.

The waterfalls combine easily with the rest of the valley: see our list of things to do in the Ourika Valley, or our packages if you want to add a camel ride or a trek with lunch in a Berber family.

Sources

• Wikipedia, Ourika Valley (about 30 km from Marrakesh, Setti Fatma as last town on the paved road, Monday souk)
• Saidi et al. (2010), The Ourika floods (High Atlas, Morocco), Comunicações Geológicas 97 (summer storms, flood rise times, the flood of 17 August 1995; in French)
• JICA, study on flood risk management in Morocco (2007), mentions the 1995 Ourika toll (in French)